"In defense of Colombo, there are a number of excellent 4 and 5 star hotels, but beyond these there is little to stay for. As for tourist offices, no one seems to know if they exist."by Peter Melvyn
(December 22, Colombo, Sri Lanka Guardian) The short answer is that there has only been an average of 35,000 a month and often far fewer which is the number to fill a large sports stadium. Compared to the multi millions that visit Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia to name a few, these numbers are hardly impressive. With an average room occupancy rate of below 50%, tourism still retains fourth place as foreign currency earner. Just imagine what it would mean if tourist numbers were doubled. By far the largest single group are from India since the fare is low and the proximity enables many Indians to take their first bite of foreign travel. The excellent government Tourist Ministry website offers some fascinating statistical information. Maybe such detail is more suitable for a separate website not usually studied by tourists. Do nationals of some countries really need to know that a mere handful of their fellows visited Sri Lanka?
Who coined the country’s tourist slogan "A land like no other"? It certainly lives up to this description in both the positive and negative sense. Rubbish can be seen everywhere, often added to and ignored by locals. In spite of government proclamations, feral dogs roam unrestricted costing millions of rupees in treating rabies. They "breed like rabbits" as one tourist said. Spitting is accepted even in dense urban areas and its not unusual to see men and children urinating by the roadside.
The government tourist website offers Kandy as "Sri Lanka’s most beautiful town". Maybe the view from the lakeside and above the surrounding hills might meet that description but little else. On their way from Colombo to Kandy, the view will soon be obliterated by uncontrolled advertising hoardings that dwarf the passing vehicles. Tourists often enter Kandy passing by the General Hospital which may have good medical facilities but is hardly an attractive building and made worse by the hostel accommodation opposite that seems to bear years of neglect. "Welcome to Kandy" signs will not be in evidence and in its place is the unfinished Buddha statue now masked by rotting fibre mats, which are a slight improvement on the previous rags that draped it for several years. The eye now takes in endless metal fencing adorned with political posters that also seem to cover every flat surface in the town. As quickly as these are removed, they are replaced by others. Makeshift stalls are everywhere, along with the broken pavements and poor road surface, and crossing the road at any point is risking life and limb. If you are fortunate enough to be travelling in an air conditioned bus, you will avoid the choking pollution caused by buses and vehicles emitting clouds of black smoke. Venturing further into the town and the scene is certainly vibrant but far from beautiful. Shop signs and unregulated buildings comprise the commercial centre along with various schools and places of worship. To the uninitiated western tourist, this is really Asia, and probably they would be disappointed if they were not to see such a chaos, shambles and clutter in town planning.
World Heritage site? It certainly is but apart from the Temple of the Tooth and its surroundings, the only visible links to heritage are the broken, dirty and often hidden ceramic plaques that can be seen on many buildings. Unregulated planning has allowed a laissez faire attitude to building and shop signs where every merchant tries to outdo his competitor with larger signs. Don’t expect to find a public toilet that you would be comfortable with because they don’t exist and your best chance is a larger hotel. A stroll around the lake might sound pleasant but since this is the only vehicle route you will have to accept noise and fumes for much of the way. Plenty of hotels alongside the lake will provide drinks and meals that you can enjoy, but the top of the lake adjoining the town has only a third rate snack bar mainly used by three wheeler drivers and a miserable and dusty government craft shop. The long awaited shopping and cultural centre is far from completion, and still has the look of a building site. Is there a quiet park to rest your weary feet? No, and no outdoor cafes to sip your drink, relax and watch the world go by. In fact Kandy is gradually becoming one gigantic market. There is a government tourist office if you can find it which offers little more than can be gleamed from a travel guide, and it only serves Kandy, so don’t ask about other areas.
Transportation in Sri Lanka is aimed at the backpacking fraternity. The more upmarket tourists stick to private vehicles. Trains are slow and offer little creature comforts for toilets, food and cleanliness. Air conditioning is provided by open windows. Distances for travel anywhere might not be far in terms of kilometres but the time in hours is a better way to plan your trips. The brave can rent cars, but driving in Sri Lanka is an adventure. Buses use every possible means to pass one or two vehicles, risking head-on collisions, and ending up behind more vehicles with no saving of time. At night there is the added thrill of vehicles large and small travelling without lights or only one or two very dim lights. Cyclists and pedestrians, for some strange reason, dressed in dark clothing, along with dogs and the occasional cow, have equal rights to use the roads. And don’t expect all oncoming vehicles to dip their headlights. Finding suitable places to stop for refreshment can be difficult, and even when you have found a venue that is open, the food available might be minimal depending on the time of day.
How long should a tourist spend in Colombo? The quick answer is just time enough to get out of the city. For travellers used to lovely parks, museums, art galleries, shopping malls and places to safely stroll, they will not find much to their satisfaction in Colombo. There is no world class theatre, concert hall, museums, art galleries, etc. and whilst the lakes might look inviting on the map, they are best avoided as they offer absolutely nothing. For recreation you are limited to the Central Park which may have been a showcase in Colonial times but little beauty remains. For locals the Galle Face Green is where you stroll. Up to the end and back again cooled by a sea breeze.
In defense of Colombo, there are a number of excellent 4 and 5 star hotels, but beyond these there is little to stay for. As for tourist offices, no one seems to know if they exist.
Out of the urban areas and there are a number of interesting sites to visit. But even here the visitors centre and facilities are a long way in standard from those offered in neighbouring countries. Many temples and historical sites are in a state of neglect and some of the most interesting places don’t even appear in guide books or are familiar to tourist guides. Sadly, many of these important sites are off the beaten track and out of sight and mind to the Ministry of Tourism.
But if its sea, sand and sun you are after, then you will not be disappointed down south. But even here you have to select carefully because the miles of crystal clear water and sparkling sand, only exists in short stretches, and the weather is not always non-stop sunshine. The Minister of Tourism and his staff surely must realise that friendly smiles and Buddhism is not what most tourists want. While backpackers find Sri Lanka cheap and cheerful with a good helping of third world experiences to relate when they get home, they are not then big spenders, and nor are the Indian tourists who account for 20% of the total. Another sizeable group of tourists are Sri Lankans now resident in First World countries. They travel on foreign passports so cannot be enumerated. Meanwhile The Tourism Ministry is planning to confer awards on outstanding persons and institutions in the field of tourism. Have they really lead to an increase in the number of visitors because that is the real measure of success. According to the government around 900,000 people are estimated to directly or indirectly benefit from tourism and related sectors. This does seem incredible as it implies that around 25 people every month benefit from each tourist.
Its easy to blame the conflict in the north which at times has spilled over to Colombo. But many countries have internal conflicts that have not prevented large scale tourism. In the travel pages of Singapore’s Straits Times, or newspapers in Maylasia, Sri Lanka does not even get a mention. When you see how much has been done in Singapore and Malaysia to attract tourists, one can only wonder why Sri Lanka has made no real attempt to copy. There have been many expensive measures to increase the tourism with exposure at world travel fairs and exhibitions. This has mainly benefited the countries where these exhibitions take place. Until the government accepts that Sri Lanka is a "land like no other" but more in the negative rather than positive sense, the Ministry of Tourism will continue to celebrate when numbers show even a marginal increase.
( The author has travelled extensively throughout the world and has written about tourism in several countries. He has offered to discuss with Ministry officials some suggestions based on his extensive experience for improving the numbers visiting Sri Lanka. No replies to his letters or emails were ever forthcoming. He an be reached petermelvyn@yahoo.com)- Sri Lanka Guardian
(December 22, Colombo, Sri Lanka Guardian) The short answer is that there has only been an average of 35,000 a month and often far fewer which is the number to fill a large sports stadium. Compared to the multi millions that visit Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia to name a few, these numbers are hardly impressive. With an average room occupancy rate of below 50%, tourism still retains fourth place as foreign currency earner. Just imagine what it would mean if tourist numbers were doubled. By far the largest single group are from India since the fare is low and the proximity enables many Indians to take their first bite of foreign travel. The excellent government Tourist Ministry website offers some fascinating statistical information. Maybe such detail is more suitable for a separate website not usually studied by tourists. Do nationals of some countries really need to know that a mere handful of their fellows visited Sri Lanka?
Who coined the country’s tourist slogan "A land like no other"? It certainly lives up to this description in both the positive and negative sense. Rubbish can be seen everywhere, often added to and ignored by locals. In spite of government proclamations, feral dogs roam unrestricted costing millions of rupees in treating rabies. They "breed like rabbits" as one tourist said. Spitting is accepted even in dense urban areas and its not unusual to see men and children urinating by the roadside.
The government tourist website offers Kandy as "Sri Lanka’s most beautiful town". Maybe the view from the lakeside and above the surrounding hills might meet that description but little else. On their way from Colombo to Kandy, the view will soon be obliterated by uncontrolled advertising hoardings that dwarf the passing vehicles. Tourists often enter Kandy passing by the General Hospital which may have good medical facilities but is hardly an attractive building and made worse by the hostel accommodation opposite that seems to bear years of neglect. "Welcome to Kandy" signs will not be in evidence and in its place is the unfinished Buddha statue now masked by rotting fibre mats, which are a slight improvement on the previous rags that draped it for several years. The eye now takes in endless metal fencing adorned with political posters that also seem to cover every flat surface in the town. As quickly as these are removed, they are replaced by others. Makeshift stalls are everywhere, along with the broken pavements and poor road surface, and crossing the road at any point is risking life and limb. If you are fortunate enough to be travelling in an air conditioned bus, you will avoid the choking pollution caused by buses and vehicles emitting clouds of black smoke. Venturing further into the town and the scene is certainly vibrant but far from beautiful. Shop signs and unregulated buildings comprise the commercial centre along with various schools and places of worship. To the uninitiated western tourist, this is really Asia, and probably they would be disappointed if they were not to see such a chaos, shambles and clutter in town planning.
World Heritage site? It certainly is but apart from the Temple of the Tooth and its surroundings, the only visible links to heritage are the broken, dirty and often hidden ceramic plaques that can be seen on many buildings. Unregulated planning has allowed a laissez faire attitude to building and shop signs where every merchant tries to outdo his competitor with larger signs. Don’t expect to find a public toilet that you would be comfortable with because they don’t exist and your best chance is a larger hotel. A stroll around the lake might sound pleasant but since this is the only vehicle route you will have to accept noise and fumes for much of the way. Plenty of hotels alongside the lake will provide drinks and meals that you can enjoy, but the top of the lake adjoining the town has only a third rate snack bar mainly used by three wheeler drivers and a miserable and dusty government craft shop. The long awaited shopping and cultural centre is far from completion, and still has the look of a building site. Is there a quiet park to rest your weary feet? No, and no outdoor cafes to sip your drink, relax and watch the world go by. In fact Kandy is gradually becoming one gigantic market. There is a government tourist office if you can find it which offers little more than can be gleamed from a travel guide, and it only serves Kandy, so don’t ask about other areas.
Transportation in Sri Lanka is aimed at the backpacking fraternity. The more upmarket tourists stick to private vehicles. Trains are slow and offer little creature comforts for toilets, food and cleanliness. Air conditioning is provided by open windows. Distances for travel anywhere might not be far in terms of kilometres but the time in hours is a better way to plan your trips. The brave can rent cars, but driving in Sri Lanka is an adventure. Buses use every possible means to pass one or two vehicles, risking head-on collisions, and ending up behind more vehicles with no saving of time. At night there is the added thrill of vehicles large and small travelling without lights or only one or two very dim lights. Cyclists and pedestrians, for some strange reason, dressed in dark clothing, along with dogs and the occasional cow, have equal rights to use the roads. And don’t expect all oncoming vehicles to dip their headlights. Finding suitable places to stop for refreshment can be difficult, and even when you have found a venue that is open, the food available might be minimal depending on the time of day.
How long should a tourist spend in Colombo? The quick answer is just time enough to get out of the city. For travellers used to lovely parks, museums, art galleries, shopping malls and places to safely stroll, they will not find much to their satisfaction in Colombo. There is no world class theatre, concert hall, museums, art galleries, etc. and whilst the lakes might look inviting on the map, they are best avoided as they offer absolutely nothing. For recreation you are limited to the Central Park which may have been a showcase in Colonial times but little beauty remains. For locals the Galle Face Green is where you stroll. Up to the end and back again cooled by a sea breeze.
In defense of Colombo, there are a number of excellent 4 and 5 star hotels, but beyond these there is little to stay for. As for tourist offices, no one seems to know if they exist.
Out of the urban areas and there are a number of interesting sites to visit. But even here the visitors centre and facilities are a long way in standard from those offered in neighbouring countries. Many temples and historical sites are in a state of neglect and some of the most interesting places don’t even appear in guide books or are familiar to tourist guides. Sadly, many of these important sites are off the beaten track and out of sight and mind to the Ministry of Tourism.
But if its sea, sand and sun you are after, then you will not be disappointed down south. But even here you have to select carefully because the miles of crystal clear water and sparkling sand, only exists in short stretches, and the weather is not always non-stop sunshine. The Minister of Tourism and his staff surely must realise that friendly smiles and Buddhism is not what most tourists want. While backpackers find Sri Lanka cheap and cheerful with a good helping of third world experiences to relate when they get home, they are not then big spenders, and nor are the Indian tourists who account for 20% of the total. Another sizeable group of tourists are Sri Lankans now resident in First World countries. They travel on foreign passports so cannot be enumerated. Meanwhile The Tourism Ministry is planning to confer awards on outstanding persons and institutions in the field of tourism. Have they really lead to an increase in the number of visitors because that is the real measure of success. According to the government around 900,000 people are estimated to directly or indirectly benefit from tourism and related sectors. This does seem incredible as it implies that around 25 people every month benefit from each tourist.
Its easy to blame the conflict in the north which at times has spilled over to Colombo. But many countries have internal conflicts that have not prevented large scale tourism. In the travel pages of Singapore’s Straits Times, or newspapers in Maylasia, Sri Lanka does not even get a mention. When you see how much has been done in Singapore and Malaysia to attract tourists, one can only wonder why Sri Lanka has made no real attempt to copy. There have been many expensive measures to increase the tourism with exposure at world travel fairs and exhibitions. This has mainly benefited the countries where these exhibitions take place. Until the government accepts that Sri Lanka is a "land like no other" but more in the negative rather than positive sense, the Ministry of Tourism will continue to celebrate when numbers show even a marginal increase.
( The author has travelled extensively throughout the world and has written about tourism in several countries. He has offered to discuss with Ministry officials some suggestions based on his extensive experience for improving the numbers visiting Sri Lanka. No replies to his letters or emails were ever forthcoming. He an be reached petermelvyn@yahoo.com)- Sri Lanka Guardian
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