Enchanting Isfahan

“Isfahan was that capital city of Persia from 1598 -1722. Today it continues to be an important city as a centre of religion and education. It is also the centre of industry, agriculture and handicrafts for the region. The many mosques and other buildings embellished with mosaic and tile work, paintings and calligraphy are superb examples of Islamic architecture.”
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by Marina Ismail

“Who can claim to have seen the most beautiful city of the world without having seen Isfahan” - Andre Malraux

(March 28, Colombo, Sri Lanka Guardian) Situated at the centre of the Iranian plateau besides the River Zayandehood and overlooked by the Saffeh mountains in the south; gifted with a mild climate and surrounded by fertile soils, Isfahan had all the natural advantages to be an important city. From very early times it was a focal point for traders; however it was after Shah Abbas 1 shifted the capital city of Persia from Qazvin to Isfahan in 1598 that it became one of the most beautiful cities in the world. For a period of thirty years from this date, the city was improved with the buildings of palaces, mosques, bridges and parks. At that time it was said to have been an example of city planning at its best – it remains so even in the present day.

Isfahan was that capital city of Persia from 1598 -1722. Today it continues to be an important city as a centre of religion and education. It is also the centre of industry, agriculture and handicrafts for the region. The many mosques and other buildings embellished with mosaic and tile work, paintings and calligraphy are superb examples of Islamic architecture. These monuments, the bridges across the rivers and early edifices such as the pigeon towers which housed pigeons whose droppings were used for agriculture, among many others, make Isfahan "a living museum" according to R N Bakhtiar a well known photographer and a loyal native of Isfahan.

Driving through the city and seeing so much of the mosques and other buildings one feels that the Imam Square is the real centre which portrays the essence of its culture. Within this rectangular space measuring 1,674 ft. by 540 ft are the “jewels of 17th century architecture---symbolising the political, economic and religious spheres.” To the north is the entrance to the Qaysariyyeh Bazaar, to the east the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, facing this to the west the Ali Ghapu palace and to the south the magnificent entrance to the Immam Mosque and adjoining theological school. All this is made more impressive by the body of water in the centre of the square.

The Immam Mosque dominates the Square. At the entrance one experiences a sense of awe seeing the elegant and skilled workmanship of calligraphy and metalwork. The blue-white tile work blending with green and yellow inside with verses from the Holy Koran inscribed on the walls, gives a feeling of tranquility. The well laid out gardens of the Theological School, one feels, is ideal for the pursuit of knowledge. The slim 48 metre high minarets of the Mosque are also adorned with verses from the Holy Koran.

The smaller Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque is distinctive because it has no minarets – it was more or less a ‘private’ mosque and as the Imam Mosque was close by there was no need to recite the “Azan” or “Call to Prayer”. This mosque, with its colour combinations in tile work and a variety of motifs used is said to be unique. What one finds most touching is the inscription in the far corner of the mosque, “a poor humble man in need of God’s Blessing. Mohamed Reza, son of master mason Hussein Isfahani, “1708 Hijra”. No doubt the name of the person involved in the building of the mosque.

The Ali Ghapu Palace consists of six floors filled with paintings and calligraphy. It had been used as a reception centre for foreign dignitaries during the 17th century. It is worth the effort to climb to the sixth floor and the “sound room”. This Hall is larger than the others and the plaster work depicts various jars, which helps the acoustics. On reaching this floor, one is also rewarded with a panoramic view of the Square.

The Qaysariyyeh Bazaar is said to be one of the best in the region, selling a variety of goods ranging from carpets, exquisite gold and silver jewellery, printed linen and handicrafts, to herbs, spices and food-stuffs. One walks through narrow alleys with shops on both side and light filtering downwards from the high ceiling – a touch of the mystic East!

The block-printed table and bed linen are famous; it was interesting to see how this is done. It is done on hand-woven cloth in white and off-white in colours of red, black, green, blue, yellow and brown. The designs are mainly floral, paisley, animals and birds. It is painstaking work which one cannot imagine when quantities of this work are seen in the shops.

Isfahan is also the centre of miniatures. These paintings are usually of hunting scenes, birds, flowers, animals and rural life. The more expensive ones are done on thin sheets of camel bone. The bazaar is full of shops selling miniatures as well as other handicrafts such as trinket boxes, wall plaques and intricately crafted brass lamps and ornaments.

Apart from those buildings in Iman Square., Isfahan has many other important mosques and palaces. Mosques such as Friday or Jame Mosques, houses (or palaces) such as Chehel Sotun Palace and the Kharazai House, each one distinctive in its own way. The Friday Mosque, is one of the oldest in the city, and unlike the others it has a simple brickwork exterior, while the interior is ablaze with coloured tile-work and intricate designs in a vaulted ceiling.

The Kharazi House once belonged to a family of carpet merchants; today it is a museum with its mirror – work, frescoed ceiling and painted wooden doors. Most of these houses are museums with landscaped gardens which are used as public parks.

The present Abbasi Palace Hotel is part of a complex comprising the hotel, Theological School and Art Centre in the Chahar Bagh or Avenue of Four gardens. This was built between 1704 -1714 A.D. The hotel was a caravan serai, the income from which was used to finance the theological school. From the hotel one can see the predominantly blue tiled domes and minarets of the school towering above the hotel rooms. A noteworthy feature of the school is its one piece marble minbar which is truly beautiful. It is also worthwhile visiting the Conference Room at the Hotel – its luxurious furnishings in red, gold and black is unmatched.

Another interesting place in Isfahan is the Vank Cathedral in the Armenian Quarter of the city - a characteristic area with its jewellery shops and old houses. The Cathedral was built in 1654 A.D.; its architecture is distinctively Iranian while the many paintings inside have been influenced by the Italian and Dutch Schools of Art. The adjoining museum houses many rare exhibits one of which is an engraving on a single hair, which can be seen under a microscope only.
A sad place but one that must be visited is the Martyrs Cemetery. Within the well-tended gardens are the graves of those who died in the Iran – Iraq war. The graves are laid out in neat rows, each one with a photograph of the person buried there. In the cool of the evening, relatives were seen saying a silent prayer for their loved ones.

Writing of Isfahan will be incomplete without a word about the bridges on the River Zeyandehood, “that are perfect examples of usefulness and an unmatched artistic beauty. They are a source of beauty, livelihood and prosperity”. Each one of its five bridges is different from the other. The oldest is the Shahnestan Bridge with brick arches over stone foundations, an ingenious way of coping with the rush of water in spring. An old fortress Sarooyeh, is located nearby. The Khaju Bridge is built on two levels. It is 133 metres long,
12 metres wide and has 24 arches. The main road in on the second level; steps lead down to the water front. In the middle of the bridge is a 17th century Royal Chamber. Today a large park adjoins this bridge. The other bridges are Allhvedikkan or 33 arch bridge, the Marnam bridge and in between these two, the Pol-e-Jui bridge.

A city however beautiful comes to life only with its people. The people of Isfahan are friendly, amiable and hospitable. We had a typically Iranian lunch with a family we had casually met at Shiraz. They were keen that we visit them at their home in Isfahan – they were so kind and amiable and made us most welcome. Although the visit was short, we have such happy memories of them, as well as the many others who were so very friendly.

In the evenings, crowds of people are seen walking along the cobbled, tree-lined streets, window shopping or going to the many eating places that serve delicious Iranian food. The parks and gardens are also full of people relaxing and enjoying themselves. On the streets, boys sell pistachios and Gaz – the traditional sweetmeat. Interesting to us were the boys with parrots who, for a small fee were ready to tell our fortunes.

The numerous old tea houses in the city are also popular places where people meet, sip tea and smoke the hookah. Our first experience of such a place was in the Qaysariyyeh Bazaar. We climbed two flights of narrow stairs and entered a large room overlooking the Iman Square. Here, delicate sweetmeats were served with tea and discs of caramalised sugar. The tea house in the Khaju Bridge was reached by carefully walking on stone slabs placed on the water. Long tables are placed in the alcoves and the tea kettle was placed on a small stove; the hot, fragrant tea is really refreshing! An attractive tea house that is very popular among visitors to Isfahan is situated at a spot beside the river. In alcoves, each with a view of the river, were carpeted window seats. The centre has a model of Iman Square; but what is fascinating is the roof, where all types of odds and ends ranging from old boots and walking sticks to teapots and antique lamps are seen to hang. It is such an unusual and unique place.

Isfahan is a great city with its mosques, palaces, museums and bazaars, as well as its cultured and friendly people. The 10th century Iranian poet Khaghani very aptly describes it as:-

“A city as brilliant as the thoughts of a wise man in which the whole world is reflected.
A city as beautiful as the beloved one’s face in which you may find anything you wish”

Photographs
1. Immam Square with the Iman Square in the background
2. Sheikh Lotfullah Mosque
3. View of Tea House Ceiling
- Sri Lanka Guardian